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Testamatta, Bibi Graetz 2018
Testamatta 2018: Der beste Jahrgang aller Zeiten – 100 Punkte

Bereits mit dem ersten hergestellten Jahrgang 2000, erklärte Robert Parker über Testamatta: "Ich glaube, diese beeindruckende Leistung markiert das Debüt eines neuen Weltklasse Super-Toskaners." Seitdem sind etliche Jahre vergangen, und Bibi Graetz und sein Testamatta haben es wirklich in die Elite der italienischen Weine geschafft. Letzte Meisterleistung ist der Testamatta 2018, zum ersten Mal mit 100 Punkten von Decanter gekrönt..

Bibi Graetz ist einer der umstrittensten Weinhersteller Italiens. Wir freuen uns sehr, den großen Jahrgang 2018 für Testamatta und Colore von Bibi Graetz anbieten zu können, einem ikonoklastischen toskanischen Winzer, der einen einzigartigen Ansatz bei der Weinherstellung verfolgt. Die große Neuigkeit ist die Preisgestaltung - 35% unter dem Verkaufspreis der Jahrgänge 2015 und 2016, die günstigsten verfügbaren Jahrgänge dieser Weine auf dem Markt.

Graetz - der halb Norweger und halb Israeli ist - sucht in seinen Weinen nach Reichtum, Finesse und großer Länge und Tiefe. Seine Weine haben auch ein langes Alterungspotential, auch wenn der erste Jahrgang des Testamatta der 2000er war. Graetz hat eine Affinität zu alten Rebstöcken, insbesondere zu einheimischen Rebsorten wie Sangiovese, Colorino und Colore. In seinen Rotweinen steckt immer ein Hauch von Genialität.

Bei der Verkostung des ersten Testamatta-Jahrgangs, Jahrgang 2000, erklärte Robert Parker in seiner Verkostungsnotiz: "Ich glaube, diese beeindruckende Anstrengung markiert das Debüt dieses neuen Super-Toskaners. " und einige Jahre später "bin ich immer noch beeindruckt von den schönen Weinen von Bibi Graetz. Es sind höchst einzigartige, ausdrucksstarke Weine, die eine ernsthafte Betrachtung verdienen".

Decanter Jane Anson 100 points
Finely textured, with a nuanced perfume that fills the glass and takes you to the intense underbrush of Tuscany. Succulent and yet savoury, this has a lilting freshness that is overlaid with ripe berry fruits, sage and white pepper spice, and clear minerality in terms of its scraping texture that makes your mouth water on the finish. Feels light and sculpted and yet has an intensity that skewers you to the spot. This is a great wine, with scope and imagination that doesn't want to let you go. Genuinely stands out among the wines of this tasting, and these are a fine array of wines. As with Colore, Bibi Graetz selects only old vines, the youngest 50 years old from five different vineyard sites across Tuscany, all farmed organically. Fermentations in open 225l barrels with natural yeasts and manual punch downs.
The Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 94 Points
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine."
James Suckling 97 Points
"Very subtle aromas of cherries, bark, black truffles and flowers. Hints of crushed stones. It's full-bodied, yet very tight and solid with a very tight, minerally structure. Very long and intense. Racy and bright at the end. Powerful, orange-peel and citrus-fruit undertones. Salty and minerally. This needs time to develop in the bottle. Extremely structured. A wine not to touch until after 2023."

Colore, Bibi Graetz 2018
The Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 97 Points
"Compared to the Testamatta that proved more difficult during the blending phase, Bibi Graetz's 2018 Colore came together without a hitch, as he tells it. With this vintage, the Colore (with 9,000 bottles produced) has almost become a single-vineyard wine, since up to 90% of its fruit comes from old vines (these are majestic plants from 80 to 135 years old) in the high-altitude Lamole area where Bibi farms five hectares. The addition of Colorino to this Sangiovese-based wine has been reduced to a mere 5% in this vintage: "Just like a touch of lipstick," Bibi says. The Colorino grape adds noticeable lift and buoyancy in this vintage. Next to the Testamatta, you get more structure and backbone here, with deep and penetrating red berry fruit, ruby cherry, crushed aspirin, ferrous earth, crushed flowers and some of the fragrant steeping herbs used in Fernet-Branca. My only hesitation is that the wine takes long to yield on the bouquet, and I coaxed two bottles of Colore over two days before writing this note. As a result, I recommend pushing the drinking window forward by a few extra years to give the wine time to flesh out and open fully."
James Suckling 97 Points
"What intense aromas of cherries and raspberries! Then it turns to flowers and orange peel. Roses, too. This is really full and powerful with layers of ripe tannins. It's super fine-tannined, but shows wonderful length and intensity. A great expression of Lamole in Chianti Classico with ancient vines. Some older than 100 years. Best ever? Superb. Try after 2024 and onwards."
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